CE: G43 – MP44 Collectors Service
Exploded view of G/K43 + a technical advice
Use any of the information on this page at your own risk !
At the end it"s indicated if a Serial Number (S/N = complete number, s/n = two digits) or a WaA was used on the part (not consistently)
# 1: Handguard (Handschutz)
# 2: Muzzle nut (Laufmutter)
# 3: Sight hood (Kornschutz)
# 4: Foresight (Korn)
# 5: Bolt, stripped (Kammer) S/N WaA
Bolt, complete (Schloß, Verschluß)
# 6: Right locking lug (Stützklappe, rechte) s/n WaA
# 7: Left locking lug (Stützklappe, linke) s/n WaA
# 8: Extractor (Auszieher) s/n
# 9: Extractor retainer (Auszieherbolzen)
# 10: Extractor spring (Auszieherfeder)
# 11: Firing pin housing (Verschlußstück, Schlagbolzensteuerstück) S/N WaA
# 12: Retainer for firing pin extention (Bolzen zur Begrenzung)
# 13: Firing pin (Schlagbolzen) WaA early ac
# 14: Firing pin extention (Schlagstück)
# 15: Recoil spring front (Schließfeder, vorne)
# 16: Recoil spring guide, front (Führungsrohr)
# 17: Recoil spring guide, rear (Führungsbolzen)
# 18: Bolt housing retainer (Sperrscheibe für Schloßhülse, Schloßgehaüse)
# 19: Recoil spring, rear (Schließfeder, hinten)
# 20: Bolt hold open (Deckelsperre)
# 21: Bolt hold open splint (Knoten für Deckelsperre)
# 22: Bolt hold open spring (Feder für Deckelsperre)
# 23: Bolt hold open pin (Stift für Deckelsperre)
# 24: Bolt carrier (Verschlußdeckel) S/N WaA
# 25: Sliding dust cover (Schutzshieber)
# 26: Bolt housing (Schloßhülse, Schloßgehäuse) S/N WaA
# 27: Safety retainer (Federring für Sicherung)
# 28: Safety lever (Sicherungshebel) WaA early
# 29: Safety plunger (S. Arrettierungsbolzen)
# 30: Safety spring (Feder für Arrettierungsbolzen)
# 31: Ejector pin (Bolzen für Auswerfer)
# 32: Ejector spring with housing (Feder und Gehäuse für Auswerfer)
# 33: Ejector (Auswerfer)
# 34: Actuator rod spring (Feder für Stoßgestänge)
# 35: Actuator rod (Stoßgestänge) WaA early
# 36: Connecting rod (Verbindungsstange)
# 37: Gas cylinder (Gaskolbenbuchse) S/N
# 38: Gas piston (Gaskolben) WaA
# 39: Magazine (Magazin) WaA
Magazine housing (Magazingehäuse) WaA
Magazine guide (Zubringer)
Magazine spring (Zubringerfeder)
Magazine floorplate (Magazinboden)
# 40: Magazine catch (Magazinhalter) WaA
# 41: Magazine catch spring (Feder für Magazinhalter)
# 42: Magazine catch pin (Bolzen für Magazinhalter)
# 43: Hammer spring (Schlagfeder)
# 44: Hammer pin (Hammerhaltebolzen)
# 45: Hammer washers (Distanzrollen)
# 46: Hammer (Hammer) WaA
# 47: Sear pin (Abzugsstangenbolzen)
# 48: Sear spacers (Distanzrollen)
# 49: Sear (Abzugsstange)
# 50: Sear spring, trigger spring (Abzugsfeder)
# 51: Trigger spacers (Distanzrollen)
# 52: Trigger (Abzug) WaA
# 53: Trigger pin (Haltebolzen für Abzug)
# 54: Trigger adj. screw (Eichungsschraube für Abzug)
# 55: Barrel (Lauf) WaA
Receiver (Systemgehäuse) S/N WaA
# 56: Cleaning rod (Putzstock)
# 57: Front band (Oberring, Riemenbügel)
Front band spring (Oberringhaltefeder)
# 58: Stock (Schaft) S/N WaA (not late ac 45)
Crosslug (Zapfenlager)
# 59: Triggerguard (Abzugsbügel)
# 60: Triggerguard screw (Systemhalteschraube)
Front sight base (Kornsockel) WaA
Gas cylinder sleeve (Gaskolbenhalter) WaA
Gas cylinder sleeve pin (Stift für Gaskolbenhalter)
Rear sight ramp (Visierkurvenschiene)
Rear sight leaf + slide (Visierklappe + Schieber) WaA
Rear sight spring (Visierfeder)
Buttplate with trapdoor (Kolbenkappe)
Bolt catch - activated by the magazine (Kammerfang)
Disassembly and assembly of the G/K43
Make sure the rifle is unloaded and safety in the safe position (facing up or right hand side). Remove the magazine from the rifle by depressing the magazine catch button and pulling down and forward on the magazine. Remove cleaning rod if present.
If the rifle has a sling loosen it up a few inches. Now depress the front band spring, and slide the front band forward. You will now be able to remove the handguard.
Pull back on the charging handle all the way to the rear, turn the safety lever to the right side and depress the hold open lever on the right side of the bolt carrier. At the rear of the receiver is a button (just above the safety) depress the button, and the bolt assembly will pull upwards and out of the receiver starting with the rear part of the bolt assembly. *Note: if you have a late Walther gun, there may not be a hold open catch. Pull the bolt assembly to the rear, and depress the takedown button, but beware! the parts are under spring tension, and will fly everywhere if you do not keep both hands firmly on them, and always protect your face! Now with the bolt in both hands cupped firmly, depress the hold open catch. The recoil springs will push the bolt open and you can now easily disassemble everything by hand. The recoil guide assembly and rear recoil spring can be easily disassembled, or cleaned and oiled as a unit.
Turn the rifle over. There are two screws which hold the trigger guard in place. They have four notches in them that catch spring loaded pressure pins in the trigger guard. Depress the pins with a small punch while loosening the screws. Once you have removed the screws, pull forward on the magazine catch to release the trigger guard. Now the stock will slide off of the action.
To remove operating rod components:
Push the actuator rod rearwards to give clearance to remove the small connecting rod. Now slide the actuator rod and spring forwards and outwards. The gas cylinder can now slide rearward and off. The gas piston can be removed with a small crescent wrench. I would not recommend further disassembly of front or rear sights and trigger assembly unless absolutely necessary to remove broken or otherwise unusable parts. Cleaning and oiling of these parts can be done in place.
Once you have cleaned and oiled the parts:
Insert the firing pin into the firing pin housing. (long semi rectangular shaped piece).
Insert firing pin extension (small tapered rod with a notch in the thinner area) fat end first into the firing pin housing. (note: there is a small retaining pin in the rear of the firing pin housing that seats in the firing pin extension recess)
Insert the complete firing pin assembly into the bolt. Bolt will have elliptical cut out in front facing up, as will firing pin housing. Insert left and right locking flaps into bolt (this may take some practice to get right) and slide firing pin extension all the way in.
Note: locking flaps are not reversible. the right side flap has a groove on the bottom which corresponds to a bulge in the right side lug bolt channel
Insert long recoil spring into rear of bolt, seated on top of firing pin extension. Insert complete rear (small) recoil spring assembly into stamped sheet-metal bolt housing so that take down pin pokes out the top rear hole and other two pins poke out the side rear holes. Insert bolt carrier (handle) foot at the front into the elliptical cutout in the bolt making sure it seats also in the elliptical cutout in the firing pin extension.
Now slide the front recoil spring onto the rod assembly that is holding the rear recoil spring in the stamped housing. You will begin to experience tension. Align the bolt carrier to slide back over the recesses for it in the stamped housing. Continue to pull it back under tension as far as it will go- to the rear of the housing. Now, with the assembly all the way back, engage the hold open catch on the rear of the bolt. This should hold everything into place. Making sure the safety is turned to the right (the hammer must be cocked first), slide the bolt assembly front end first into the receiver until it "seats itself." simply depress the takedown button, and it will drop the rest of the way in and lock.
Now reassemble the rest of the rifle in the exact reverse order of disassembly.
(Credits to K98k Mauser Page)
If you have a "no hold open bolt":
Taking such a bolt out is kind of easy. All you have to do is press the button, pull the bolt back a tiny little bit, then lift the housing out. And installing it did indeed take a while as there is just a tiny little sweet spot you have to hit to get it to drop down.

How to mount the safety lever
See the picture below. Use snap ring pliers. The tap has to point downwards. It's a good idea to turn the trigger-guard screw fully up so it hits the safety-plunger and then takes the pressure from the safety-plunger spring.


A "crack" in the bolt housing ?
Many G/K43 rifles exhibit this "crack" in the bolt housing, some more, some less pronounced. The "crack" is not actually not a crack. The bolt housing is made from sheet metal, much like rolling a cigarette (or a joint, if you're from California or Colorado). The back end is then folded over and a cup shaped reinforcement welded against it from the inside. The "crack" is where the folded parts overlap. The hole near the "crack" has no supporting function at all. The bolt housing is held in place by two pins poking through the holes at center line. The hole near the crack is only there to allow the firing pin extension to pass through while cycling.
  

Assembly of the small parts in the receiver
Start from the front and move backwards. It helps to use slave pins and 3 - 5 thumbs. The hammer washers shall turn the concave (open) side inwards.










How to check the headspace

Step #1: Unload the weapon.
Step #2: Obtain Go, No-Go and Field gauges for 8 mm (Brownells) - (I have used good military ammo as Go-gauge - and the same with a piece of paper at it's rear end as No-Go gauge).
Step #3: Remove complete bolt assembly.
Step #4: Remove the extractor, the firing pin and recoil springs, leaving the firing pin housing as well as both locking lugs in the bolt.
Step #5: Reinsert the bolt + housing in the receiver.
Step #6: Insert a screwdriver in the slot in the firing pin housing and move the bolt forward slowly. My experiences with only little used G/K43's say there may be a headspace of 0.35 - 0.50 mm (0.014 - 0.020")
Observe if the locking lugs properly engage the recesses. (if not - you have a problem)
Step #7: Insert the Go gauge in the chamber. Follow the same procedure as above. The locking lugs should engage the recesses properly, meaning minimum headspace is present.
(I have observed with little worn G/K43's that if you use a good live cartridge here (you have no gauges) the clearance should be between 0.00 - 0.20 mm (0.000 - 0.008"))
Step #8: Check for maximum headspace by following the same procedure with the No-Go gauge. The hoped goal here is for the locking lugs NOT to engage into recesses, or to do so with some resistence. If this is the case you most likely have a rifle with a good tight headspace. However, if lugs freely engage all is not lost - see next step.
Step #9: Check for absolute maximum safe headspace by following the same procedure with Field gauge. Most of these rifles fails with the No-Go gauge, but pass the Field gauge test, meaning it's safe to shoot with modern ammo. If it fails the Field gauge test, for Gods shake not shoot it !!
Step #10: Disregard everything above and take it to a real gunsmith. Have him check it over and only shoot it if he gives the seal of approval, better yet have him test fire it.
(credits to William)

How to change the barrel ?
First drive out the retaining pin. The barrel shank is about 0.04 mm (0.0015") larger in diameter than the receiver ring diameter, so it's necessary to heat the receiver and press out the old barrel with a hydraulic press. Some say it's easiest to press the barrel in the receiver and not out of the receiver. Note here that when the receiver is heated the barrel is heated almost the same so this heating process isn't of much help.
Make some measurements to determine roughly the position of the barrel. Now heat the receiver and chill the barrel shank. With a 8x57JS "GO" gauge on the bolt put the bolt group in the receiver. Drop the barrel in and time it really quick because the barrel and the reciever get the same temperature in 5 seconds. Redrill the retaining pin hole and put in the pin. Check headspace.
If you have a reamer, assemble the parts with a too tight headspace and then use the reamer to attain the correct headspace.
Niedermeier in Germany replace barrels for resonable money. They drill a smaller hole in the barrel so a shooters kit is unnecessary.

Is is safe to shoot a G/K43 ?
Many authors of gun books tell it's dangerous to shoot such a "piece of sheet metal". It's true the outside finish of these rifles isn't too good but the quality of the steel is high. Some have heard of an exploded G/K43. I have heard the same about a new Garand with a failure in the receiver. It exploded and the soldier was seriously wounded.
I once got an almost unused K43, but something was wrong with it. It had been fired without the locking lugs. The stock was cracked, the back part of the receiver was a little slanting, but the rest looked quite normal. A proof of the quality of the steel used even in the last months of the war. I presume that the idiot who fired it must have got a severe shock.
When I get a G43 I always follow these steps:
Step #1: Check the headspace.
Step #2: Renew the recoil springs.
Step #3: Use Rob Applegates special designed gas cylinder (Apfeltor Waffenfabrik) - see picture below. And drill two holes in the gas cylinder. Take a look at another page of the website: G43 in general
Step #4: Use only good quality fodder for your rifle. Don't use ammo if you don't know what it is. For instance has "Bordwaffen-Munition" (for use in MG17 in airplanes - has a green ring around the projectile) a much higher velocity and pressure, and it's dangerous to use in a rifle. I don't like late war phosphated ammo because the cases corrode from the inside and often crack.
Step #5: Examine carefully all parts. Oil if necessary.
I think you will have a good time at the shooting range if you follow these advices.
Your G43 is shooting fully automatic!
Not a pleasant surprise. The reasons could be following:
1: The sear pin and other pivot pins are able to slip out to one side because of excessive clearance between the receiver and the stock. This can rather easily happen because of the thin receiver walls. Note if this is the case you will feel the trigger moves abnormally. The cure could be thick tape over the pin holes in the side of the receiver to prevent them for working loose.
2: "Slam fire" because of too fierce a recoil or if the firing pin is stuck or jammed. Note that there will be a small dent in the primer when the cartridge is chambered - a courtesy of the free-floating firing-pin. This dent can possibly be so deep that a soft civilian primer ignites.
3: The hammer spring isn't seated correctly or the trigger set screw is misadjusted so it isn't catching the sear or disconnector when the hammer comes back.

Perhaps an idea
when you assemble the mount steel bands


A few videos
Forgotten weapons: Gewehr 43
Bolt disassembly and installation
Installation of shooter kit and fine tuning
Extractor removal and reinstallation
Apfeltor Waffenfabrik
Sells gascylinders + "a shooters kit" which will make it possible to regulate the gas pressure.
click
His email address: ApfeltorLos@aol.com

The poor mans "shooters kit"
Use a rivet and reduce the gas port size by over half. Just bulge the rivet slightly in the bore and tap out the stem. It's anchored and the head sits in the tapered portion of the piston,