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Use any of the
information on this page at your own risk !
At the end it"s indicated if a
Serial Number (S/N = complete number, s/n = two digits) or a WaA
was used on the part (not consistently) |
# 1: Handguard (Handschutz)
# 2: Muzzle nut (Laufmutter)
# 3: Sight hood (Kornschutz)
# 4: Foresight (Korn)
# 5: Bolt, stripped (Kammer) S/N WaA
Bolt, complete (Schloß, Verschluß)
# 6: Right locking lug (Stützklappe, rechte) s/n WaA
# 7: Left locking lug (Stützklappe, linke) s/n WaA
# 8: Extractor (Auszieher) s/n
# 9: Extractor retainer (Auszieherbolzen)
# 10: Extractor spring (Auszieherfeder)
# 11: Firing pin housing (Verschlußstück,
Schlagbolzensteuerstück) S/N WaA
# 12: Retainer for firing pin extention (Bolzen zur Begrenzung)
# 13: Firing pin (Schlagbolzen) WaA early ac
# 14: Firing pin extention (Schlagstück)
# 15: Recoil spring front (Schließfeder, vorne)
# 16: Recoil spring guide, front (Führungsrohr)
# 17: Recoil spring guide, rear (Führungsbolzen)
# 18: Bolt housing retainer (Sperrscheibe für Schloßhülse,
Schloßgehaüse)
# 19: Recoil spring, rear (Schließfeder, hinten)
# 20: Bolt hold open (Deckelsperre)
# 21: Bolt hold open splint (Knoten für Deckelsperre)
# 22: Bolt hold open spring (Feder für Deckelsperre)
# 23: Bolt hold open pin (Stift für Deckelsperre)
# 24: Bolt carrier (Verschlußdeckel) S/N WaA
# 25: Sliding dust cover (Schutzshieber)
# 26: Bolt housing (Schloßhülse, Schloßgehäuse) S/N WaA
# 27: Safety retainer (Federring für Sicherung)
# 28: Safety lever (Sicherungshebel) WaA early
# 29: Safety plunger (S. Arrettierungsbolzen)
# 30: Safety spring (Feder für Arrettierungsbolzen)
# 31: Ejector pin (Bolzen für Auswerfer)
# 32: Ejector spring with housing (Feder und Gehäuse für
Auswerfer)
# 33: Ejector (Auswerfer)
# 34: Actuator rod spring (Feder für Stoßgestänge)
# 35: Actuator rod (Stoßgestänge) WaA early
# 36: Connecting rod (Verbindungsstange)
# 37: Gas cylinder (Gaskolbenbuchse) S/N
# 38: Gas piston (Gaskolben) WaA
# 39: Magazine (Magazin) WaA
Magazine housing (Magazingehäuse) WaA
Magazine guide (Zubringer)
Magazine spring (Zubringerfeder)
Magazine floorplate (Magazinboden)
# 40: Magazine catch (Magazinhalter) WaA
# 41: Magazine catch spring (Feder für Magazinhalter)
# 42: Magazine catch pin (Bolzen für Magazinhalter)
# 43: Hammer spring (Schlagfeder)
# 44: Hammer pin (Hammerhaltebolzen)
# 45: Hammer washers (Distanzrollen)
# 46: Hammer (Hammer) WaA
# 47: Sear pin (Abzugsstangenbolzen)
# 48: Sear spacers (Distanzrollen)
# 49: Sear (Abzugsstange)
# 50: Sear spring, trigger spring (Abzugsfeder)
# 51: Trigger spacers (Distanzrollen)
# 52: Trigger (Abzug) WaA
# 53: Trigger pin (Haltebolzen für Abzug)
# 54: Trigger adj. screw (Eichungsschraube für Abzug)
# 55: Barrel (Lauf) WaA
Receiver (Systemgehäuse) S/N WaA
# 56: Cleaning rod (Putzstock)
# 57: Front band (Oberring, Riemenbügel)
Front band spring (Oberringhaltefeder)
# 58: Stock (Schaft) S/N WaA (not late ac 45)
Crosslug (Zapfenlager)
# 59: Triggerguard (Abzugsbügel)
# 60: Triggerguard screw (Systemhalteschraube)
Front sight base (Kornsockel) WaA
Gas cylinder sleeve (Gaskolbenhalter) WaA
Gas cylinder sleeve pin (Stift für Gaskolbenhalter)
Rear sight ramp (Visierkurvenschiene)
Rear sight leaf + slide (Visierklappe + Schieber) WaA
Rear sight spring (Visierfeder)
Buttplate with trapdoor (Kolbenkappe)
Bolt catch - activated by the magazine (Kammerfang) |
Disassembly and
assembly of the G/K43 |
Make sure the rifle is unloaded and safety in the
safe position (facing up or right hand side). Remove the
magazine from the rifle by depressing the magazine catch button
and pulling down and forward on the magazine. Remove cleaning
rod if present.
If the rifle has a sling loosen it up a few inches. Now depress
the front band spring, and slide the front band forward. You
will now be able to remove the handguard.
Pull back on the charging handle all the way to the rear, turn
the safety lever to the right side and depress the hold open
lever on the right side of the bolt carrier. At the rear of the
receiver is a button (just above the safety) depress the button,
and the bolt assembly will pull upwards and out of the receiver
starting with the rear part of the bolt assembly. *Note: if you
have a late Walther gun, there may not be a hold open catch.
Pull the bolt assembly to the rear, and depress the takedown
button, but beware! the parts are under spring tension, and will
fly everywhere if you do not keep both hands firmly on them, and
always protect your face! Now with the bolt in both hands cupped
firmly, depress the hold open catch. The recoil springs will
push the bolt open and you can now easily disassemble everything
by hand. The recoil guide assembly and rear recoil spring can be
easily disassembled, or cleaned and oiled as a unit.
Turn the rifle over. There are two screws which hold the trigger
guard in place. They have four notches in them that catch spring
loaded pressure pins in the trigger guard. Depress the pins with
a small punch while loosening the screws. Once you have removed
the screws, pull forward on the magazine catch to release the
trigger guard. Now the stock will slide off of the action.
To remove operating rod components:
Push the actuator rod rearwards to give clearance to remove the
small connecting rod. Now slide the actuator rod and spring
forwards and outwards. The gas cylinder can now slide rearward
and off. The gas piston can be removed with a small crescent
wrench. I would not recommend further disassembly of front or
rear sights and trigger assembly unless absolutely necessary to
remove broken or otherwise unusable parts. Cleaning and oiling
of these parts can be done in place.
Once you have cleaned and oiled the parts:
Insert the firing pin into the firing pin housing. (long semi
rectangular shaped piece).
Insert firing pin extension (small tapered rod with a notch in
the thinner area) fat end first into the firing pin housing.
(note: there is a small retaining pin in the rear of the firing
pin housing that seats in the firing pin extension recess)
Insert the complete firing pin assembly into the bolt. Bolt will
have elliptical cut out in front facing up, as will firing pin
housing. Insert left and right locking flaps into bolt (this may
take some practice to get right) and slide firing pin extension
all the way in.
Note: locking flaps are not reversible. the right side flap has
a groove on the bottom which corresponds to a bulge in the right
side lug bolt channel
Insert long recoil spring into rear of bolt, seated on top of
firing pin extension. Insert complete rear (small) recoil spring
assembly into stamped sheet-metal bolt housing so that take down
pin pokes out the top rear hole and other two pins poke out the
side rear holes. Insert bolt carrier (handle) foot at the front
into the elliptical cutout in the bolt making sure it seats also
in the elliptical cutout in the firing pin extension.
Now slide the front recoil spring onto the rod assembly that is
holding the rear recoil spring in the stamped housing. You will
begin to experience tension. Align the bolt carrier to slide
back over the recesses for it in the stamped housing. Continue
to pull it back under tension as far as it will go- to the rear
of the housing. Now, with the assembly all the way back, engage
the hold open catch on the rear of the bolt. This should hold
everything into place. Making sure the safety is turned to the
right (the hammer must be cocked first), slide the bolt assembly
front end first into the receiver until it "seats itself."
simply depress the takedown button, and it will drop the rest of
the way in and lock.
Now reassemble the rest of the rifle in the exact reverse order
of disassembly.
(Credits to K98k Mauser Page)
If you have a "no hold open bolt":
Taking such a bolt out is kind of easy. All you have to do is press the button, pull the bolt back a tiny
little bit, then lift the housing out. And installing it did indeed take a while as there is just a tiny
little sweet spot you have to hit to get it to drop down.
How to mount the safety lever
See the picture below. Use snap ring pliers. The tap has to point downwards. It's a good
idea to turn the trigger-guard screw fully up so it hits the safety-plunger and then takes the pressure from the safety-plunger spring.
A "crack" in the bolt housing ?
Many G/K43 rifles exhibit this "crack" in the bolt housing, some more, some less pronounced.
The "crack" is not actually not a crack. The bolt housing is made from sheet metal, much like rolling a cigarette (or a joint, if you're from California or Colorado).
The back end is then folded over and a cup shaped reinforcement welded against it from the inside. The "crack" is where the folded parts overlap. The hole near the "crack" has no supporting function at all. The bolt housing is held in place by two pins poking through the holes at center line. The hole near the crack is only there to allow the firing pin extension to pass through while cycling.
Assembly of the small parts in the receiver |
Start from the
front and move backwards. It helps to use slave pins and
3 - 5 thumbs. The hammer washers shall turn the concave
(open) side inwards.
How to
check the headspace
Step
#1: Unload the weapon.
Step #2: Obtain Go, No-Go and Field gauges for 8
mm (Brownells) - (I have used good military ammo
as Go-gauge - and the same with a piece of paper
at it's rear end as No-Go gauge).
Step #3: Remove complete bolt assembly.
Step #4: Remove the extractor, the firing pin
and recoil springs, leaving the firing pin
housing as well as both locking lugs in the
bolt.
Step #5: Reinsert the bolt + housing in the
receiver.
Step #6: Insert a screwdriver in the slot in the
firing pin housing and move the bolt forward
slowly. My experiences with only little used
G/K43's say there may be a headspace of 0.35 -
0.50 mm (0.014 - 0.020")
Observe if the locking lugs properly engage the
recesses. (if not - you have a problem)
Step #7: Insert the Go gauge in the chamber.
Follow the same procedure as above. The locking
lugs should engage the recesses properly,
meaning minimum headspace is present.
(I have observed with little worn G/K43's that
if you use a good live cartridge here (you have
no gauges) the clearance should be between 0.00
- 0.20 mm (0.000 - 0.008"))
Step #8: Check for maximum headspace by
following the same procedure with the No-Go
gauge. The hoped goal here is for the locking
lugs NOT to engage into recesses, or to do so
with some resistence. If this is the case you
most likely have a rifle with a good tight
headspace. However, if lugs freely engage all is
not lost - see next step.
Step #9: Check for absolute maximum safe
headspace by following the same procedure with
Field gauge. Most of these rifles fails with the
No-Go gauge, but pass the Field gauge test,
meaning it's safe to shoot with modern ammo. If
it fails the Field gauge test, for Gods shake
not shoot it !!
Step #10: Disregard everything above and take it
to a real gunsmith. Have him check it over and
only shoot it if he gives the seal of approval,
better yet have him test fire it.
(credits to William)
How to
change the barrel ?
First drive out the retaining
pin. The barrel shank is about 0.04 mm (0.0015")
larger in diameter than the receiver ring
diameter, so it's necessary to heat the receiver
and press out the old barrel with a hydraulic
press. Some say it's easiest to press the barrel
in the receiver and not out of the receiver.
Note here that when the receiver is heated the
barrel is heated almost the same so this heating
process isn't of much help.
Make some measurements to determine roughly the
position of the barrel. Now heat the receiver
and chill the barrel shank. With a 8x57JS "GO"
gauge on the bolt put the bolt group in the
receiver. Drop the barrel in and time it really
quick because the barrel and the reciever get
the same temperature in 5 seconds. Redrill the
retaining pin hole and put in the pin. Check
headspace.
If you have a reamer, assemble the parts with a
too tight headspace and then use the reamer to
attain the correct headspace.
Niedermeier in Germany replace barrels for resonable money.
They drill a smaller hole in the barrel so a shooters kit is unnecessary.
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Is is
safe to shoot a G/K43 ? |
Many
authors of gun books tell it's dangerous to
shoot such a "piece of sheet metal". It's true
the outside finish of these rifles isn't too
good but the quality of the steel is high. Some
have heard of an exploded G/K43. I have heard
the same about a new Garand with a failure in
the receiver. It exploded and the soldier was
seriously wounded.
I once got an almost unused K43, but something
was wrong with it. It had been fired without the
locking lugs. The stock was cracked, the back
part of the receiver was a little slanting, but
the rest looked quite normal. A proof of the
quality of the steel used even in the last
months of the war. I presume that the idiot who
fired it must have got a severe shock.
When I get a G43 I always follow these steps:
Step #1: Check the headspace.
Step #2: Renew the recoil springs.
Step #3: Use Rob Applegates special designed gas
cylinder (Apfeltor Waffenfabrik) - see picture
below. And drill two holes in the gas cylinder.
Take a look at another page of the website:
G43 in general
Step #4: Use only good quality fodder for your
rifle. Don't use ammo if you don't know what it
is. For instance has "Bordwaffen-Munition" (for
use in MG17 in airplanes - has a green ring
around the projectile) a much higher velocity
and pressure, and it's dangerous to use in a
rifle. I don't like late war phosphated ammo
because the cases corrode from the inside and
often crack.
Step #5: Examine carefully all parts. Oil if
necessary.
I think you will have a good time at the
shooting range if you follow these advices. |
Your
G43 is shooting fully automatic! |
Not a
pleasant surprise. The reasons could be
following:
1: The sear pin and other pivot pins are able to
slip out to one side because of excessive
clearance between the receiver and the stock.
This can rather easily happen because of the
thin receiver walls. Note if this is the case
you will feel the trigger moves abnormally. The
cure could be thick tape over the pin holes in
the side of the receiver to prevent them for
working loose.
2: "Slam fire" because of too fierce a recoil or
if the firing pin is stuck or jammed. Note that
there will be a small dent in the primer when
the cartridge is chambered - a courtesy of the
free-floating firing-pin. This dent can possibly
be so deep that a soft civilian primer ignites.
3: The hammer spring isn't seated correctly or
the trigger set screw is misadjusted so it isn't catching the sear or disconnector
when the hammer comes back.
Perhaps an idea
when you assemble the mount steel bands
A few videos
Forgotten weapons: Gewehr 43
Bolt disassembly and installation
Installation of shooter kit and fine tuning
Extractor removal and reinstallation
Sells gascylinders + "a shooters kit"
which will make it possible to regulate
the gas pressure. |
click
His email address: ApfeltorLos@aol.com
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The poor mans "shooters kit" |
Use a rivet and reduce the gas port size by over half. Just bulge the rivet slightly in the bore and tap out the stem. It's anchored and the head sits in the tapered portion of the piston,
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